Leash Training: Stop Your Dog from Pulling

Your dog drags you down the street. Your arm aches. You've tried "being the alpha," yanking the leash, changing directions constantly, or using a prong collar. Nothing works. Here's why: you're treating the symptom (pulling) without understanding the cause (reinforcement history and lack of training).

Why Dogs Pull

Dogs don't pull to dominate you or because they're stubborn. They pull because:

1. Pulling Gets Reinforced

Every time your dog pulls toward something interesting (tree, person, smell) and reaches it, the pulling behaviour is reinforced. They learn: "Pull = Get what I want."

This creates thousands of repetitions where pulling works, building a deeply ingrained habit.

2. Dogs Walk Faster Than Us

A dog's natural walking pace is faster than human walking speed. Without training, they default to their preferred speed.

3. Opposition Reflex

When pressure is applied to a dog's neck or body, their instinct is to push or pull against it. This is why constantly pulling back on the leash often makes pulling worse.

4. Excitement and Arousal

Walks are exciting! Dogs experience sensory overload (smells, sights, sounds) and struggle with impulse control when aroused.

The Goal: Loose-Leash Walking (Not Perfect Heeling)

Let's clarify expectations:

**Heeling:** Dog walks in precise position at your left side, focused on you, regardless of distractions. This is formal obedience training.

**Loose-leash walking:** Dog walks with a slack leash, can sniff and look around, but doesn't pull. This is practical for everyday walks.

For most pet owners, loose-leash walking is the realistic and appropriate goal.

Equipment Matters

The right equipment makes training easier and protects your dog.

Recommended Equipment

**1. Front-clip harness:**

- Redirects pulling force to the side, not forward
- Reduces strain on throat and trachea
- Gives you more control
- Example: Freedom Harness, Easy Walk Harness

**2. Standard 1.5-2m leash:**

- Provides enough freedom without losing control
- Avoid retractable leashes for training (they reward pulling)

**3. Treat pouch:**

- Hands-free access to rewards
- Essential for consistent reinforcement

Tools to Approach With Caution

**Prong collars and slip leads:**

These tools apply aversive pressure. While they can be effective in experienced hands, they:

- Risk causing pain and injury
- Can create negative associations with walks
- Don't teach the dog what TO do, only what not to do
- May suppress pulling without addressing the underlying lack of training

If you choose to use these tools, work with a qualified trainer who understands proper fit, application, and timing.

Training Protocol: Building Loose-Leash Walking

Phase 1: Foundation Indoors (Week 1-2)

Start in a distraction-free environment where success is easy.

**The "Be a Tree" Method:**

1. Put your dog on leash indoors
2. Begin walking
3. The instant the leash gets tight, STOP moving and stand completely still
4. Don't pull back, don't say anything—just stop
5. Wait for your dog to release tension (even slightly)
6. The moment the leash goes slack, immediately say "YES!" and start walking again
7. Repeat constantly

**What your dog learns:** "Pulling makes everything stop. A loose leash makes us move forward."

Practice 5-10 minutes, multiple times per day. This builds the foundation.

Phase 2: Adding Engagement (Week 2-3)

Now teach your dog that checking in with you is rewarding.

**The "Check-In" Game:**

1. Walk with your dog on a loose leash
2. Every time your dog looks at you voluntarily, mark it ("YES!") and treat
3. Start with frequent reinforcement (every 3-5 seconds of attention)
4. Gradually increase the duration between rewards
5. Randomly reward check-ins throughout the walk

**What your dog learns:** "Paying attention to my person is worthwhile."

Phase 3: Generalising to Low-Distraction Outdoors (Week 3-4)

Move training outside, but choose easy environments:

- Quiet residential streets during off-peak hours
- Empty car parks
- Your front garden or driveway

Continue using the "Be a Tree" method. Expect regression—outdoor distractions are hard! Be patient and consistent.

**Important:** Keep initial outdoor training sessions SHORT (5-10 minutes). You want to end on success, not exhaustion.

Phase 4: Increasing Distraction Levels (Week 5-8)

Gradually introduce more challenging environments:

- Busier streets
- Parks with other dogs at distance
- Areas with interesting smells
- Auckland CBD footpaths (for confident dogs)

**Strategy:**

1. Start training sessions at distance from distractions
2. As your dog succeeds, gradually move closer
3. If they struggle, increase distance again
4. Use higher-value treats in more distracting environments (chicken, cheese, not just kibble)

Phase 5: Building Duration and Reliability (Month 3+)

Now you're working on consistency across various contexts:

- Longer walks (30+ minutes)
- Different locations
- Different times of day
- Different people walking the dog

Continue reinforcing check-ins and loose-leash walking, but gradually thin the reward schedule (variable reinforcement).

Advanced Technique: The "Permission" Protocol

Once your dog understands loose-leash walking, you can teach them to ask for permission to sniff:

1. Dog indicates interest in something (slowing down, looking)
2. You give a release cue: "Go sniff!"
3. Dog investigates while you stand still
4. After 10-30 seconds, give a recall cue: "Let's go!"
5. Reward heavily for disengaging and returning to walking

This creates a "sniffing as reward" system where polite walking earns the opportunity to explore.

Common Mistakes

1. Inconsistent Reinforcement of Pulling

If you sometimes let your dog pull to "just get there faster," you're reinforcing pulling on a variable schedule—the strongest type of reinforcement.

**Solution:** If you're in a hurry, carry your dog or drive. Don't let pulling work.

2. Starting With High Distractions

Expecting your dog to walk politely at the dog park or on a beach on day one is setting them up to fail.

**Solution:** Follow the training phases. Build skills in easy environments first.

3. Using Constant Leash Pressure

Holding the leash tight or pulling back constantly teaches your dog to pull against you (opposition reflex) and habituates them to pressure.

**Solution:** Keep a loose leash at all times unless actively correcting. Your default should be slack.

4. Not Rewarding Enough

Loose-leash walking is hard for dogs. If you don't make it worth their while, they'll default to pulling.

**Solution:** In the early stages, reward every 3-5 steps of loose-leash walking. Slowly thin the schedule as skill improves.

5. Insufficient Exercise

An under-exercised dog is a nightmare to walk. They're bursting with pent-up energy and have no impulse control.

**Solution:** Provide adequate physical and mental exercise separate from leash training walks. A tired dog is a trainable dog.

Auckland-Specific Considerations

1. Training Locations

Good low-distraction training spots in Auckland:

- School car parks after hours
- Quiet suburban streets (try early mornings)
- Community centre car parks on weekdays
- Local reserves during off-peak times

2. Leash Laws and Regulations

Under Auckland's August 2025 dog control regulations:

- Dogs must be on-leash in all public places except designated off-leash areas
- Maximum leash length: 2 metres
- Owner must maintain control at all times
- Fines for non-compliance can reach $300

Good leash manners aren't just convenient—they're legally required.

3. Urban Walking Challenges

Auckland's urban environment presents unique challenges:

- Heavy foot traffic on CBD footpaths
- Other dogs on narrow pavements
- Buses, skateboards, cyclists
- Outdoor dining areas with food smells

These are advanced distractions. Build foundational skills first before tackling city centre walks.

Timeline: What to Expect

**Week 1-2:** Indoor foundation work. Slow progress, lots of stopping. This is normal.

**Week 3-4:** Moving outdoors. Expect regression. Stay consistent.

**Week 5-8:** Noticeable improvement in low-distraction environments. Dog checks in more frequently.

**Month 3:** Reliable loose-leash walking in most situations. Occasional pulling when highly excited.

**Month 6+:** Strong default behaviour. Dog walks politely most of the time with minimal reminders.

Remember: every dog is different. A young, high-energy breed will take longer than a calm, older dog. Be patient.

When to Seek Professional Help

Work with a trainer if:

- Your dog is pulling so hard you're at risk of injury
- Pulling is accompanied by reactivity (barking, lunging at dogs/people)
- You've tried these protocols consistently for 6-8 weeks with no improvement
- Your dog is large/powerful and you physically can't stop them

A good trainer can assess your specific situation, refine your technique, and address underlying issues like arousal or reactivity.

Loose-leash walking is one of the most important skills your dog can learn. It transforms walks from a battle into a pleasure. It takes time and consistency, but it's absolutely achievable.